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Help with installation / diagram

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
Hi,


I am after some help with a heated windows installation / diagram - grateful for any input.

Unfortunately, the company supplying the installion went bust and I have been left with a system that doesn't  work (incorrectly designed).

We had a local electrician do the first fix wiring based on the diagrams but he says what has been sent won't work in it's current state and he doesn't have the relevant expertise to adjust it.

We live in a rural area and electricians are not that common especially for something as complex as this.

Rather than post up the diagrams and go into too much detail initially, I just wanted to know if this is a place to ask for advice and if not could anyone point me in the right direction. e.g contact details for an electrical engineer.


Thanks.
  • Welllllllll, possibly but it shouldn't do that with tempered glass (FENSA regs) and a safe touch temperature. Actually I am more worried that these are in wooden frames, because the thermal insulation is not good, and we don't have heat to play with. The glass should be marked with the logo that it is compliant, sand blasted on.
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    I suspect that's exactly the reason, Andy


    Looks like it's a common sensor to monitor the pane temperature for both the room condition and as the safety condition for glass overtemperature


    Certainly some early systems I was involved with (not this company) did have some problems in terms of overheating of the glass with the consequent expansion problems (although they were more that seals between panes failed rather than total shattering of the pane). That said, direct solar onto large panes in poorly engineered frames and no shading has the same effect


    Regards


    OMS
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    Hi everyone,


    Sorry for the delay - been waiting for a miserable day (hard to believe in Scotland!) and also waiting on a digital thermometer to be delivered.

    Anyway - hooked up one set of windows today directly to test - R2-R15-R16 (no sensors just switch on/off)


    Initial temps : 14C - 18C - 17C

    Temps after 30 mins 25C - 28C - 27C


    The temp of glass outside for R2 was 7.5C - this remained between 7 & 7.5C which was a good indication.

    In comparison, the other hall window which was not connected stayed at approx 13.5C and walking between the 2 was quite noticeable.


    I've also found a small note in electricians stuff which say safe operating temp not to exceed 40C


    Thanks.


    Ian.
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    tutty:

    Hi everyone,


    Sorry for the delay - been waiting for a miserable day (hard to believe in Scotland!) and also waiting on a digital thermometer to be delivered.

    Anyway - hooked up one set of windows today directly to test - R2-R15-R16 (no sensors just switch on/off)


    Initial temps : 14C - 18C - 17C

    Temps after 30 mins 25C - 28C - 27C


    The temp of glass outside for R2 was 7.5C - this remained between 7 & 7.5C which was a good indication.

    In comparison, the other hall window which was not connected stayed at approx 13.5C and walking between the 2 was quite noticeable.


    I've also found a small note in electricians stuff which say safe operating temp not to exceed 40C

     


    Hi Tutty, I am glad to hear that it seems all is not lost! I can’t comment on whether or not the heated windows were a good idea or not in the first place but understand that it must have been quite costly for you and I hate things going to waste :( .


    Had you been a bit nearer I would have walked round and had a look from the mandatory 2 meters for you but I am not a Proclaimer! :)


  • tutty:

    The temp of glass outside for R2 was 7.5C - this remained between 7 & 7.5C which was a good indication.


    Was that the outdoor temperature today? (12 deg C on the balmy south coast)


  • That sounds quite sensible - clearly the outer pane is not the heated one, and it is well cooled, and the inner ones are being warmed  up  as they should.

    I am not sure if it is really enough heat for your case, or if it will need supplementing, but you have a way forward - a simple room thermostat in series will do the main control, and ideally some sort of overheat trip on the window that runs hottest to knock it off if it gets too much.
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    Thanks for the offer weirdbeard - I am not a Proclaimer either (although they did walk 500 miles ;)) - original Merseysider. In hindsight windows have been a nightmare - never easy when a company goes belly up.

    Chris - yep 7 degrees outside on the day I tested - raining and pretty miserable.

    Mike - do you have a link to a thermostat I could wire in series - the only ones I have are digital and can only be wired in parallel (so I can only get it to work with 1 window) - unless there is a workaround?

    I was thinking of using wireless thermostats - in theory would it be feasible to use a wireless UFH wiring centre with zones to activate each group of windows?

    With regards to grouping the windows is it possible to group windows R2-R15-R25 (master bedroom) as 1 group and R7-R13-R20 (bed 2) as another group or will I encounter problems?


    Thanks for all the input from everyone.


    Ian.
  • Something like this cheap from scewfix  is typical and about the simplest - takes in L and N supply and gives out a switched L (and you carry the N on to the loads.)


    see diagrams  diarams


    If you do not connect the N the mechanical contacts still work but some designs have a pre-heat to reduce the hysterisis a bit.

    But actually even the complex ones wifi enabled type need more or less  the same wiring really. Not all designs have the back contact that comes on when it gets hot - that is used for air-con, you want the one that comes on when it gets cold of course...

    Some test lamps and a hair dryer may allow some debugging,,,