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Wiring diagram

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
Anyone out there with a great mind for heating systems, care to draw me a wiring diagram ?


There is a

-warm flow oil boiler 

-Immersion 

-pipe stat 

-UFH Valve

-Manifold(8 zones)

-Hot water valve

-Hot water circulation 

-Towel warmer valve (stat is what’s on the towel rail)

-Upstairs heating valve

-2 x 2 channel Honeywell programmer

-1x 1 channel Honeywell programmer

-1x stat for upstairs radiators

-stat for each ufh zone 


Any advice on what I can use to get this all linked together, currently looking at S plan but I feel someone with experience with similar system  may give some better guidance 


Clint



  • 0
    I spotted the pipe stat and thought frost protection.


    Frost stat to fire the boiler and circulation pump, pipe stat to turn it off.


    The requirement for separate frost protection depends on what is already going to be included in the other controls and the system layout.


    Andy Betteridge
  • 0
    Just google 'S Plan +'  there are 100's of wiring diagrams.

    So you have the following valves:

    UP CH, Down CH, HW, Towel rail, UFH. 5 valves, so nothing too difficult.

    You will need at least one stat for each of those. The UFH stat is probably included in the UFH kit/controller.

    Is it really going to be a circulatory HW system? Is the house huge?

    That is normally only used for large commercial systems.
  • 0

    whjohnson:

    Well if it were me, I'd leave a fused connection unit fitted with a 3A fuse next to the boiler and get the plumber who designed it to wire it up.




    Been there. Tried that. Failed. Moral of the story is for the householder to be clear who is contracted to do what.


    Concerning frost stat: when the "Beast from the East" was blowing a couple of winters ago, I got a call saying that the CH would not switch off. House was warm and toasty, but the external boiler house was not. It got through a lot of oil. ?

  • 0
    Traditionally the towel radiator was connected to the hot water cylinder flow and return, so that it could be used all year without firing the heating circuits up or having any separate controls, based on the assumption that the hot water will be turned on at times that you want to use the towels that are warming on the radiator.


    Personally though I just connected ours to the heating circuit without a thermostatic radiator valve on it , just a simple chrome hand valve.


    I do not really see how having wired as a separate zone with its own two port valve, separate pipework, time clock and thermostat is going to increase efficiency much.


    Says the guy who installed two heating zones in a two bedroom flat and put the shower room in with the bedrooms zone.


    Andy Betteridge
  • 0

    Chris Pearson:




    whjohnson:

    Well if it were me, I'd leave a fused connection unit fitted with a 3A fuse next to the boiler and get the plumber who designed it to wire it up.




    Been there. Tried that. Failed. Moral of the story is for the householder to be clear who is contracted to do what.


    Concerning frost stat: when the "Beast from the East" was blowing a couple of winters ago, I got a call saying that the CH would not switch off. House was warm and toasty, but the external boiler house was not. It got through a lot of oil. ?


     




    That’s why you need a frost stat and pipe stat.


    The frost stat to turn the boiler and circulation pump on, the pipe stat on the return pipe to turn them off when the warm water gets back to the boiler. 


    Frost stat on at say 5 degrees and pipe stat off at 10 degrees. But that only protects the heating system itself.


    If you use programmable thermostats then the heating can kick in do the whole house doesn’t drop below 10 degrees, which also provides hypothermia protection for people, particularly elderly people who may fall and injure themselves, meaning they don’t freeze to death in their own homes.


     Andy Betteridge 

  • 0

    Sparkingchip:

    Traditionally the towel radiator was connected to the hot water cylinder flow and return ... 




    Yes, a sensible approach, but I find that a heated towel rail is unnecessary in summer.


    An alternative approach is to have the towel rail on the heating circuit, but no TRV. You wouldn't want them all to close, would you? ?

  • 0

    Sparkingchip:




    Chris Pearson:




    whjohnson:

    Well if it were me, I'd leave a fused connection unit fitted with a 3A fuse next to the boiler and get the plumber who designed it to wire it up.




    Been there. Tried that. Failed. Moral of the story is for the householder to be clear who is contracted to do what.


    Concerning frost stat: when the "Beast from the East" was blowing a couple of winters ago, I got a call saying that the CH would not switch off. House was warm and toasty, but the external boiler house was not. It got through a lot of oil. ?



    That’s why you need a frost stat and pipe stat.



    Both were, and still are fitted, but that was the plumber's work so not my responsibility. ?

  • 0
    Perhaps someone should check the wiring and settings of the two stats.


    If the pipe stat is set to a higher temperature than the water in the return pipe reaches, even by just a degree or so, it will never turn off.


    Andy Betteridge
  • 0

    but no TRV. You wouldn't want them all to close, would you? 



    I gather the modern approach is indeed to TRV everything (or otherwise turn off the heat emitters when local temperatures are adequate) - and then if the system doesn't have the wit to shutdown the boiler and/or reduce the pump speed you have an auto by-pass valve across the boiler flow & return.


      - Andy.
  • 0

    Sparkingchip:

    Perhaps someone should check the wiring and settings of the two stats.


    If the pipe stat is set to a higher temperature than the water in the return pipe reaches, even by just a degree or so, it will never turn off.




    Point is that it was blowing so very very cold. At one point, I couldn't get my east-facing office above 55 deg C. ?

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